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Friday, March 21, 2014

Seafarer’s Log: Chronicles of Palk bay





In my point of view, the only thing that makes my journeys stand apart is the “Surprise factor” and its subsequent effects!  So here I am again in such a situation.  

By the beginning of this March, we were assigned to Palk Bay, the historic bay which acts as the International maritime boundary line (IMBL) between India and Sri Lanka.  Now, that IMBL happens to be an imaginary line drawn which can only be ascertained with some pretty good GPS sets.  And those who doesn’t know it eventually ends up in a prison in Jaffna in Sri Lanka for a high degree reason; INFILTRATION!! 

So, we manoeuvred carefully within the limit as not to disturb our friendly neighbour and anchored off the light house of Point Calimere.  Every hydrographic ops starts from a point which we call as Bench mark, which subsequently paves the way for setting up of a tide-pole for the observation of high and low tides and a couple of our crew to carry out that for the duration of the survey.  Being in this act for some pretty time I was ‘nominated’ for setting up the Tide-camp in a place called “Kodiyakkarai” which is in the South-Eastern edge of Tamil-Nadu state. 
In total, each and every nook ‘n corner of the Indian peninsula has been surveyed since 100 years (or more) but it requires constant updating of the details which are (technically) called as bathymetry which in turn keeps us hydrographers employed.  So, me and my crew along with a surprise member; my logistics officer (which was highly unlikely), were dropped at Kodiyakkarai by helicopter for the setting up!   The stay and accommodation for my crew was arranged in a nearby support-station, but the observation post was around a kilometre and half from the base. 

To begin with some history, the Tsunami which hit the coast way back in 2004 December in its own way altered the geography of that place, for example the old harbour jetty is now on land , the old fish landing centres were completely wiped out and new ones are further inland….hence the area is a kind of secluded and is a smooth combination of peace and spookyness……and so on and so forth!   

By the time we completed our setting up of camp I was informed that we wont be picked up by the chopper as it was already nearing sunset.  As a blessing in disguise my Logistics officer whom we call as LOGO proved to be worth his salt! He managed an all-exclusive get-together a.k.a party a.k.a camp fire for us!! While me and my chaps were busy with setting up I could see our LOGO was having some serious conversation with the local fishermen and that bugger managed to get some fresh catch and bartered it with some simple things , for example, fresh fish for a packet of coffee powder, the preparation of the fish for a couple of cigarettes.etc.  

The observation post as I coined earlier is far away from our support base in the premises of a salt-water pump house which pumps the sea-water to the nearby salt pans which extends about 3-4 Kms inland.  The added advantage being none is gonna come there except the pump house operators.  Altogether six of us, contributed a small amount and ‘deployed’ one of our crew to fetch some ‘essential’ things for the night.   Meanwhile everyone was searching for firewood which was gathered in less than an hour.  

The messenger came back with some Malabar ‘porottas’, scrambled eggs, extremely spicey-fried fish and the Master of Ceremony a Brandy named “Morpheus”  to which I almost imagined that Morpheus from the movie Matrix who greets Neo with his epic dialogue “Hello Mr.Anderson, we meet again!!”

The camp fire was inaugurated and Mr. Morpheus entered into our veins and the only thing which could save us mortals from this matrix world was a phone call in our mobiles.  Honestly, it was one great bitching session about everything, and everyone was pouring their hearts out.  The old wood from those de-commissioned catamarans found its salvation in that camp fire as they were being engulfed into the fire!  Actually the catamarans got its name from the Tamil term “Kattu-maram”, which means boat made of tied-up-wood, which eventually found its way into the English dictionary and was seasoned with some pepper n salt and spices and made it as Catamaran!!.   As the night moved on the eye lids were slightly heavy and we all were in the Matrix and yes in between we attended our phone calls but preferred to get back to the Matrix asap! 

The camp-cots were arranged next to the fire and the semi verticality became complete horizontality.  All our conversations died down, now its silence all around except the waves breaking, winds screeching and occasional howling of foxes somewhere far!  All my attention was in the sky, as sleeping outdoor is still a once-in-a-blue-moon opportunity.  The faint appearance of the milkyway and just wondered that these were the extravagant scenes which I wanted to share with many somewhere in the past, and that times are gone but still the stars and heavenly bodies are still there ….somewhere in between that matrix I let myself remove the pin from my brain and slept off!! 

As the twilight emerged everything was back to normal except a spider bite on my neck to which I secretly worried that I might become spider-man within no time.  Bid adieu to those pump house watchmen and rest of my crew who were to stay put at that camp for another fortnight.  While we were transiting at fairy-5 in a helicopter I was just wondering about the last 24 hours because I never asked for it, but that time searched and found me….and I was supposed to be there, perhaps it must be the games of nature or destiny or karma…all I could remember that I was there…with all my heart and soul…I was there. 

I smiled at my LOGO who never fails to fix a wide smile and nodded with courtesy....


*The chopper cruising at 90 knots and an emerald green sea down below, with small fishing boats heading to the sea ….and back to reality!*

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